Monday, February 17, 2020

Luxe Inferno

Luxury is all about perceptions! So if it looks expensive, it surely is.
The luxury industry runs on creating perceptions, one after the other, where each one tries to topple another. Brand custodians all over the world have sleepless nights in creating these perceptions and then creating some more. It is the primary preoccupation of the dream merchants in the luxury industry. It is the perception that justifies the steep premium paid by price-sensitive Indian customers.
Branding luxe is all about conjuring beautiful and fanciful images in the minds of the customers. And so every luxury brand prefers to conjure some magic — a perception. “Most expensive” as a tag that customers drool over, is certainly not easy to get. The natural corollary to this tag is — why is it so expensive? So it won’t matter if you just keep hiking your price; there has to be a demand created for it. Perception is the key element is creating this demand. So let me take you through three key strategic perception-enablers that luxury brands have been exploiting since the beginning of time and will surely keep exploiting till the end of time.
Razzle Dazzle: Remember that news of Azzam, the largest yacht in the world, or the diamond and ruby-studded 24-carat gold bodied Rolls Royce Phantom, or the most expensive wine Domaine de la Romanée-Conti or DRC ($551,314), or the most expensive bottled water Beverly Hills 90H20 Luxy Collection Diamond Edition ($100,000 per bottle), or Saluki, the most expensive dog ($5,000). These are the stuff that dreams are made of, and they create the “world’s most expensive” perceptions. This razzle-dazzle is the quickest and easiest means of creating a perception to conjure dreams that make spending millions and billions sound so justified.
Rarity: This is a very potent key to creating perception that can make people loosen their purse strings. The perception of rarity can be classified into two categories:
i) Ancient artefacts made by artisans who are no longer alive, paintings or sculptures by greats like Leonardo Da Vinci or Michelangelo, or an object, say a writing instrument or a watch used by a famous personality who is no longer alive (like Napolean Bonaparte or Mahatma Gandhi). Take for instance the priceless death mask of King Tut. These artefacts, paintings or writing instruments or watches were not rare when these well-known figures were alive; they never fetched billions at Sotheby’s. Most of the great artists such as Vincent van Gogh died penniless while now their art is fetching billions of dollars. Blame it on the perception of rarity!
ii) When a watchman tries to create a complicated mechanism like a tourbillon that will give precision to a mechanical watch, this is rarity. Every such rare watch, such rare mechanical movement is painstakingly crafted by masters over months and may be years. Such pieces are rare. This is same for any artefact or a piece of art. The man hours put into its creation give the perception of rarity to these objects.
Exclusivity: Every individual longs to be special and not ordinary. They want to receive special treatment, they want to be looked up to and envied. They desire to be emulated, they desire to belong to a certain club of exclusivity where entry in by invitation only. Luxury brands like Rolex and Louis Vuitton rely heavily on this enabler. If you own a Rolex, you will “live for greatness” and be an integral of an exclusive notional club of all owners of Rolex, such as President John F Kennedy or Martin Luther King Junior, or even tennis star Roger Federer. Or Louis Vuitton telling you if you own their trunks or duffle bags, then you will know that “there are journeys that turn into legends”, which a famous ad campaign featuring “Core values” of the LV brand with Sir Sean Connery, Bono, Francis Ford Coppola and Angelina Jolie. This is selling the perception of rising beyond the ordinary, becoming exclusive.
(Excerpt from my book Luxe Inferno. It is the third book of The Luxe Trilogy after Decoding Luxe and Dark Luxe)

Monday, September 18, 2017

Decoding Luxe : Amazing story of a reader (entrepreneur)


This story is about a day when some random pieces of events came together and unravelled a serendipitous but dazzling reward.
That day was no different, we (my wife and kids) were excited to hop on the next flight to Goa to celebrate my kids’ birthday.
We boarded the flight and soon I got into my groove of self reflection while leafing through an in-flight magazine kept there. Suddenly, I saw a feature ad of a book with signature black and golden colour combination, suited enough to convey that it had a luxury element or at least it had the element to draw requisite expensive attention.
Now, pieces of puzzle started to fall in place. I, while being a connoisseur of luxury, happen to be the owner of an e-commerce platform that I acquired recently that operates in super premium and luxury retail. Anything that had the potential of tantalising my grey cells to know more about Indian luxury space, where I have betted my capital and passion was due to be tended very meticulously.
Sitting up straight, I delved in the advertisement and quickly realised the scintillating piece of research by Mahul Brahma “Decoding Luxe” was waiting to have my eyes and hands on it.
An entrepreneur spirit can be overwhelming sometime when it gets on the nerves to have things then and there, its sans time and place, its pure passion, but this time, it was mid-air!
Thankfully the spirit settled in logical space and searched for the places to acquire the book once I land than lunging to the spare parachutes that are kept in commercial flights (You didn’t know that! Did you?)
We alighted at Goa airport, I was busy shuffling through the bookstores' phone numbers than my luggage, immediately contacted 4 of them to face the dejection of not having the book on stands. Next call went to my office guys back in Gurgaon, rushed them to the store there, got a book picked and asked them to courier it to me with a priority delivery in next 24 hours.
I planned my stay at Taj Exotica, a beautiful property, outliving its name, and fairly rooted deep to have that extra effort to be made to savour the fruits of luxury and exclusive experience. Luxury and experience is a give and take relationship, its never one sided, it can’t be, this time, the location of Taj took away my chance of having that book delivered from Gurgaon in the timeframe I was looking to.
I use an amazon.com account, now leaving no stone unturned, I installed one more app in my wife’s phone for accessing amazon.in. Imagine the excitement when I saw the listing on Amazon! But, remember, give and take? Finding the book on Kindle, setting up my new laptop that I brought along and then finally acquiring the digital print of the book took four hours of entrepreneurial spirit and time.
Mahul has done an impeccable job in putting lucid perspectives about what, how and why of luxury in India through this piece of art.
Decoding Luxe connected those dots and solved the puzzles that pave way to my vision and readies me to embark on my entrepreneurial journey ahead with luxury in India!

Thanks,

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Let There Be Colour

The media, especially general and electronic media, is always in love with darkness. The dark side of humanity always gets highest readership and TRP. If you ask the editors, they will blatantly tell you, “It is public demand”. Our appetite as readers and viewers are more suited for the dark news. This is a primary reason why I chose to remain a business editor and not move to general news. I could never choose between dark and darker. But even in business, scams have a higher viewership than the success of a young entrepreneur from the bottom of the pyramid. Human interest sunshine stories are rare, hard to come by. It is during these dark times that festivals bring us back to light. Be it the festival of lights or festival of colours, we free our minds from all the darkness and bask in the light of celebrations.

Amid all the unrest, amid all the troubles, amid all the difference these colours paint our lives in hues of happiness. We again fall in love with light and darkness just disappears. No wonder the texture of news presented also changes during festivities – the gory is pushed away from prime time and page 1.

So let us not forget the happiness that colours bring to our lives. Let us not forget how we celebrate our lives together with our fellow beings irrespective of the differences in religion, caste, creed, gender or skin colour.
  
So next time when we see a sunshine story, let us be a part of that celebration, let us relish the efforts of a humanitarian in making the society a better place, so that the TRP-driven media is forced to broadcast and publish stories on humanity. 

And I believe there is enough hue of humanity still left to be captured by thousands of cameras every day. You just need an open mind because Colours Are Brighter When the Mind Is Open.”

(Reproduced from mjPost editorial)

Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Luxury: The Great Escape

A few years back I had a conversation with our Union Finance Minister Mr Arun Jaitley on his penchant for luxury writing instruments. It is a well-guarded secret and very few people know about his collection. When we started the conversation he told me, “I just dictate and I am quite fast at that. I don’t want to talk about it (the pen collection), it is a personal matter.” However, after a little while when he realised that I want to know about his collection not as a journalist but as a fellow collector. And I did keep my word and kept it personal. I was then working on a story on lawyers and how they have a great love for writing instruments. Another senior politician and lawyer Abhishek Manu Singhvi is also not open to talk about his passion. “Yes, I do have a collection of writing instruments,” he had told me. The legal grapevine has it that he also has introduced some of his friends to fine writing instruments and has been successful in nursing a similar passion in them to full bloom.
What’s with lawyers and luxury writing instruments? If you spot them at the courtrooms you may find three sharpened HB pencils jutting out of their coat pockets. However, if you see them in their chambers, and sometimes at their homes, you will discover their secret passion. They are not very eager to talk about it or flaunt it, but if they discover that there is an appreciation for their penchant for pens, they open up and chat just the way connoisseurs talk about their passion.
Luxury, in its various forms, acts as a great escape. Luxury is a great partner for solitude. One escapes into luxury. Just like these lawyers and politicians who only find time to dictate, secretly find solace in their collection of pens. They told me in their busy schedules they just don’t get any time for themselves, just themselves. So they secretly take out an hour, may be an odd one, and spend time with their collection. They write, they clean and they fill the ink of very interesting colours. “It is like meditation,” a senior lawyer had told me.   
The story is very similar with watch and clock collectors. I call them timekeepers. I have watched them closely since my birth, secretly escaping into this luxury. My ancestral home has a great collection of antique luxury clocks and pocket watches. This was a collection that spans three generations. Both my grandfather and his father, when they were alive, and now my father, spend one hour just winding all the clocks that include the grandfather’s longcase, chimes and pocketwatches, some date back to the late 1800s, of the biggest brands. This was their private time, a time of solitude, no one was to enter the clock room for that one hour. They never used to boast about their collection, it was very personal.
The case is very similar with connoisseurs of say cigar, single malt and luxury/vintage cars. These are very personal and private escapades.
This escapement has always been a very dominant, yet the hidden reason behind the love for luxury. 
The only difference is that brand custodians never looked at this avenue with a magnifying glass.
This escapade, if properly harnessed is the next billion-dollar-churner for all luxury brands across the globe. They just need to recalibrate the positioning. Instead of positioning a brand meant for flaunting the logo where a customer will spend millions of dollars to it show off, position the brand as a great escape where consumers will be spending even a higher amount to buy an escape from their busy and mundane lives where they do not have any personal time, just for themselves. They will pay top-dollar for that one hour a week, or that lazy private beach or yacht holiday, away from everyone, where the brand will be the lone companion to their luxury solitude.
Just escaping into luxury and make the brands richer by billions.

Luxury is the great escape. 

Wednesday, June 08, 2016

Festival de Cannes: A heady mix of luxury, aspirations and counterfeits

Palais des Festival, Cannes: I had the opportunity of having a brief conversation with French actor Marion Cotillard (of The Dark Knight Rises, Inception, A Good Year fame) at the Palais des Festival in Cannes, France. She congratulated me on the selection of my debut movie as a lead actor by Cannes jury and then said, “So you also are a luxury writer? Did you find anything interesting here?” I told her that we journalists/writers have a nose for stories, especially in strange places. Marion was wearing a Dior Haute Couture dress, Dior shoes, and Chopard jewellery.
But this piece is not about the razzle dazzle of the Cannes red carpet stars, it is about the people who get ready in their (fake) designer-labelled tuxedoes and gowns and stand outside the barricade from dawn with a placard held high,desperately seeking a pass for screening in the evening. It is also about the co-existence of the dazzling luxury stores and the extensive use of counterfeits or first copies or fake designer labels by people.
(Image source: Getty image)
It was my first screening experience at the coveted Festival de Cannes, my first humble “so-called red carpet” moment at Cannes Court Métrageand little did I realise how this is an aspiration for so many – young and old – whoare ready in their best rented attires since dawn, begging for a pass. I spoke to one of them to understand how it works.
Julia is an independent graphic designer. She had come in a classic-Valentino-red-gown-look alike. The first red carpet screening will be at 6.30 pm (Cannes time). She will wait with baited breath for 12 straight hours and keep begging for a pass. And some lucky ones do get passes this way, every day. She has rented this counterfeit for Euro 100 for five days. The original Valentino would have needed two more zeroes. She will try her luck. She will wait every day till she gets one. She told me there is a huge market for such copies of designer labels that are available for rent, for men as well as for women. To an untrained eye it is as good as the original. “To me, this is a Valentino”, she told me with a pride of ownership.
The razzle dazzle of luxury brands generate, although unwittingly, a parallel market --a market for counterfeits. The luxury-crazed non-stars want to flaunt as well just like the stars that shine on the red carpet. The dominance of fakes and counterfeits at Cannes amazed me. Every second person, across genders, are flaunting labels, and almost all of them are counterfeits. The most prevalent was in the categories of accessories and leather goods – bags, belts, sunglasses, watches, what have you.
I saw the biggest of the boutiques of all the coveted luxury brands along the Cannes Riviera, but I also witnessed the biggest counterfeit show that surpassed these genuine labels by living mannequins, the non-stars. These non-stars sported amazing variations of Louis Vuitton monogram and Gucci logos, I am sure Marc Jacobs or Tom Ford would have found it interesting too (they were once creative directors at LV and Gucci, respectively).
What I admired the most was the way they were flaunting the counterfeits, with such élan and elegance. To them, they were as good as real.
But at the end a fake is a fake. It is bound to hit the luxury market hard. And this dominance and growth is due to a wrong branding strategy by most of the luxury brand custodians. They give so much attention to branding labels and making them aspirational, that the story of exquisite craftsmanship and design, somehow takes a backseat. A buyer needs to appreciate why the label has become so aspirational and only then they will not opt for a fake Omega, just because they see George Clooney sporting that logo on the red carpet.
Let your quest for luxury continue.
Mahul Brahma

Friday, April 15, 2016

“PR TRANSFORMS CRISIS INTO AN OPPORTUNITY” : MAHUL BRAHMA

Interview with Priyanka Sharma of Amity

Q:  How has been your journey so far?

It has been a very interesting journey so far. I have done my Masters in Economics from University of Calcutta.I have been a senior journalist for a long time and have held senior editorial posts in The ECONOMIC TIMES,CNBC18 and FINANCIALCHRONICLE.Then I started my Corporate communicator career as media advisor to MR. Sanjiv Goenka, Chairman of RP-SG group, and as a PRO of CESC.Later I joined Ambuja Neotia as head of corporate communications & Branding and media advisor to Mr. Harshvardhan Neotia, Chairman and MD of the group.I am currently head of Corporate Communications and Brhttps://priyankasharma12blog.wordpress.com/anding for a Tata Steel and SAIL joint venture, mjunction.

Q:Why do you think corporate requires Public Relations        specialists?

PR specialists plays a vital role in operating the corporate houses in an efficientmanner.PR helps in maintaining the positive image of an organization.They often report directly to the CEO of the company and serve as advisors in strategic planning for enhancing the profile of the company.PR assists in boosting the credibility of an organization,since it works through numerous reliable intermediaries.

Q:What is the difference between Public Relations and advertising?

Both advertising and PR are attempts of persuasion and involves using the massmedia.While both techniques have similarities, yet they are essentially different.Advertisements involves creating paid announcements to be promoted through different types of media.Whereas the role of a PR is to get free publicity for the company. PR based publicity is more credible because it is viewed as a third-party endorsement.On the other hand,advertising appears less credible because the viewers and consumers knows that it has been bought by a company trying to sell them something.

Q:What are the essential qualities of a PR?

Some of the essential qualities that are expected in a PR professional involves the following-
  • Should have strong communication and influencing skills.
  • Possess excellent writing ability to clearly articulate messages.
  • Ability to work under pressure and willing to work for long hours.
  • Updated with the current affairs
  • Should be creative,innovative and possess troubleshooting skills.
  • To build and maintain relevant media contacts.
  • Must have leadership qualities to effectively work in a team.
  • Should be a patient listener.

Q.How would you go about finding relevant contacts and sources?

It is very essential for a PR to maintain contacts and sources.Since I have started my career as a journalist,I have been in contact with large number of people from media industry.That has proved to be advantageous in my profession.Social networking also aids in building contacts with media .

Q:What sort of media outlets do you follow on a day-to-day basis?

Google news is one of the easiest and common medium to keep updated with the current affairs.You get collage and montage of everything that has been published across media.On daily basis, I read THE ECONOMIC TIMES,that has been my old habit and I have also started my career as a journalist in ECONOMIC TIMES.Apartfrom that,as a corporate communicator and branding head in mjunction ,my matter of concern is mainly upon news related to e-commerce,coal,steel or any kind of changes in policies related to it.

Q:What are some of the recent growing trends in the public relations industry?

As far as public relations industry is concerned, the entire system of the media management or public relationship is based on certain basic fundamentals that remains constant.The recent changes consists of the rise of new media, i.e. social media, that has become very important part in building media relationships.Earlier we use to deal only with print & television journalists and now there are new age writers who are experts in social media.Identifying and reaching out to the influential bloggers forms an important part of  building media relations,since they have large number of followers.

Q:Who are the major clients of your company?

The major clients include- TATA. SAIL and coal India.

Q:Do you have any strong competitors in the market?

We don’t have any strong competitors since, mjunction is a unique kind of e-commerce company.

Q:What kind of internal PR strategies being planned for the company?

It is very essential for a corporate communicator to pay heed to internal resources of the organization. The main focus is to enhance company’s relationship with the employees by facilitating  good communication among them. An organization’s success at every level depends on internal PR being  valued at both macro and micro levels. One of the best tool to keep the employees informed and feel connected is through internal newsletters. At mjunction, we have mjpost , which is a quarterly in-
house newsletters that reaches out to the employees. It features achievements of employees, recognitions and other notable moments. Even the internal stakeholders are kept updated by providing
information regarding the new contracts, award ceremonies and other happenings within mjunction.

Q:What are the CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) initiative taken by the company?

As part of our CSR initiatives, mjunction promotes a trust called ‘ejunction’. It promotes basic computer literacy and communication skills free of cost to the underprivileged sections of the society.We also organize a conference where these people are given opportunity to inspire the audience.

Q:What is PR crisis? Have you ever faced any such crisis in mjunction or in your previous company?

PR crisis is the circumstance that arises when an organization faces a challenge to its reputation. It may arise because of an unpredictable event that might have a serious impact upon an organization’s image. The company should accept their mistake if they went wrong somewhere because the media as well as the people will be more willing to forgive an honest mistake than a calculated lie.
Earlier when I was with CESC as a PRO a PRO there was a power disruption at NRS hospital. The most interesting dimension of that job was the brand recall only happened in absence of the service. In a hospital when the power is not working, it is extremely critical because there are ventilators that are on power system and people may lose life because of the power failure, there are critical operations that are going on which due to power failure may result in loss of life. So when a power supply was disrupted, People pointed towards CESC and media aimed it’s PRO. As soon as I came to know about the power failure, I immediately interacted with the media to ensure them that we are looking into the matter and trying to resolve the issue as early as possible. It is important to be demonstrative because the media as well as the public will have their own assumptions if no information is given to them by the company during crisis. Once you’ve got the situation under control, use it as an opportunity for making lasting changes. The crisis should be utilized as advantage for strengthening the image of the company.


Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Managing reputation

With the birth of a brand, its reputation is born. Just like the brand itself, the reputation needs to be nurtured and, more importantly, protected. Reputation can’t be built on what you are promising to deliver or achieve, it is only dependent on the promises that you keep, on whether you walk the talk.  
It takes years, even decades, to build the reputation of a luxury brand and just moments to ruin it as the Oracle of Omaha rightly said. So a brand custodian’s primary responsibility along with building the brand is to protect and build on the reputation.
With luxury brands, as these are not personality-dependent, the reputation management is primarily managing the reputation of the product or service in the eyes of the customers.
With the social media becoming all-powerful, this is a medium that needs to be kept under strict observation. One tweet can snowball into a reputation disaster in no time, even for the biggest of the brands. Not very long back, a huge brand, which is primarily into trunks and other leather/canvas goods, had released an ad where it showed that the trunks were hand-made. The reality was different and the trunks were machine-made and only a small part of the stitching process was manual. This truth after it was exposed on social media had dented the reputation of the brand significantly.
So, the first lesson is to know that honesty is the best policy. A brand is basically the sum of its virtues and its reputation is sum of how much it is living up to those virtues. So if the brand is living up to its brand promise then it is able to not only protect but also build its reputation.
A brand has promises to keep. And customer satisfaction is the biggest promise. Ensuring that a customer is satisfied with the promises made by the luxury brand is the biggest responsibility of the brand custodian, besides building the brand. As every touch point of the brand is responsible for making the brand, they can also ruin the reputation in no time. Just one rude behaviour by a boutique assistant can generate an apathy in the mind of the customers and social media can add momentum, mass and voices to this grievance. So, it is literally a walk on the tightrope. Every element of the brand has to ensure that only the best is delivered to the customer as they are the king.
Luxe is experiential. So the premium that a brand charges for the luxe is largely dependent on the experience of the customer. Thus one rude behaviour or even a slight reluctance to serve can break it bad.   
So, reputation management for a luxury brand comprises three aspects: living up to the brand promises, living up to the brand virtues and keeping customer at the centre of its universe.

Let your quest for luxury continue. 

Monday, February 29, 2016

The dark side of luxury

Dear readers you would recall that in my earlier posts I had shared the age-old love affair between branded luxury and our great nation of Royalty. One such example is that in the 1920s, 20% of Rolls Royce's global sales was from our great nation. There are similar true legends about Cartier’s Maharaja of Patiala necklace or Maharaja of Kashmir’s customised Louis Vuitton trucks’ collection.
However, luxury has also been a great tool for one-upmanship and some secret fetishes since ages. This is a very heavily guarded side that all luxury retailers are silent about, however, these were a chunk of their revenues then and so the demand was supplied generously. At that time there used to be dealers, mostly European traders, of these luxury items who primarily used to make their living from the generous commissions of the Maharajas and Zamindars. Thereby hangs a lesson for retailers and brand custodians.
I will share a few of such instances to give you the feel of the other side of luxury that took place in Bengal in the 19th and early 20th centuries. My friend graphic novelist Sarnath Banerjee has shared a story of a certain Zamindar who accidentally hit a chandelier with his cane, knocking it off the ceiling. It fell with a terrific crash. He was so mesmerised with the tinkling of breaking glass that he broke all the glass within his reach that night. Every piece of glass was imported from Belgium and the Chandelier would have cost a fortune, even then. He had a moment of “enlightenment” and realised the more expensive the glass, the sweeter the sound.

Then began a long career of importing expensive glass from the biggest international brands from all over the world, aided by a European trader. A few examples were 16th century goblet from Prague, Ming dynasty bone China, Belgian mirrors, French wine glasses and crystal paper weights from Austro-Hungarian empire.
He made it a private hobby to break these and listen to their “music”. And sometimes he will make a grand spectacle of his passion. Once he laid out four giant-size Belgian mirrors on the street and had his brother’s carriage run over them. Small wonder, his debt rose astronomically and he died a destitude.
Another story that Sarnath had shared in his book was the competition between two of the Zamindars or Babus on how expensive their open-top phaetons (horse carriages, modern day convertibles) were. So they started adding horses. This competition rose to level when one of them replaced the horses with Zebra. This story is not uncommon when were see the competition among the Richie Rich to showcase their imported two- and four-wheeled “beauties” unabashedly.
One-upmanship has been a great driver for luxury brands since ages.
Like modern-day elite car manufacturers, these makers of phaetons were able to brand them as exclusive giving certain features to make them aspirational.

Be it on the dark side or the brighter side, branding has played a crucial role in luxury retailing. Even at that time why did the Maharaja of Patiala want Cartier to design his necklace and not any other jeweller? Why even did Nizam buy Harley Davidson for his personal postmen and not any other motorcycle? Why even Maharaja of Kashmir asked LV to customise trunks? All these brands were able to first establish an Aspiration Quotient. That would have taken years, but they were patient and gave all the time to the custodian for establishing and maturing the brand. And that is the only reason why these brands have stood the test of time. As luxury or luxe is all about perception, the value of the brand will determine how much premium you are willing to shell out.
Every luxury brand needs to first focus of the measures that I had created -- Luxe Factor, Luxe Quoties and Aspiration Quotient. The only endeavour should be to increase them. It is only after your brand has attained a certain level in these measures compared to your competition, you will know that your premium will be accepted by the consumers.
So don’t put the blame on the luxury brands, it is the job of a brand custodian to keep increasing these quotients. It is on the consumer to take it on the dark side. But, that is true even for science.
Luxury brands should appeal to both the dark and brighter sides.

Let your quest for luxury continue.


http://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/re-tales/the-dark-side-of-luxury/1230

Monday, December 07, 2015

Luxe Quotient and Luxe Factor

Luxury is all about luxe, the dazzle. And luxe is all about perception. What dazzles you may not dazzle me, and vice versa. So, there is no universal ‘Luxe Quotient’ or ‘Luxe Factor’, as I will like to name them. It all depends on the sample that you choose to determine the ‘Luxe Quotient’ or ‘Luxe Factor’ of a luxury brand. However, Luxe Quotient or LQ can effectively determine the relative scale of luxe between two luxury brands. So if we choose the same sample for two brands of watches say Rolex and Omega, ‘Luxe Quotient’ will tell you which is more dazzling to the chosen sample.
When you want to own a piece of luxury you are well aware of the premium that you will have to pay for the same. To someone who is price sensitive this will be a very difficult proposition, justifying the premium. So the best way to justify the premium charged is through the value for money route. So let us first look at the routes through which a luxury product can be a great value for money.
The premium is charged because by purchasing that product you will be a part of an elite and exclusive club, you will be part of the legacy of that brand. So you are also paying to be a part of the history, of the legendary brand story.
Then comes the experience. When you are paying a heavy premium for a luxury purchase you are paying for the experience. You walk into a luxury boutique, the way you are greeted with a smile and offered a special treatment from the word go, it is bound to make you feel good and special. The boutique manager will make you realize that you are almost on the verge of entering an exclusive and elite club with an amazing history and legacy -- it is just a purchase away. Then your senses, which are already feeling special, actually experiences the goods feel more special. For example, you are wearing the latest Omega watch that James Bond is sporting in the upcoming movie “Spectre” on your wrist and looking at the mirror, how can you not feel elated? You have already “bonded” with that timepiece. You just know this is the one. The boutique manager keeps pampering you, sometimes even with a glass of Champagne. So finally when you make the payment, it feels so justified and incidentally also “value for money”. You will revel in that Bond moment. (Read my column: Why ecommerce in luxury will fail)
However, above all this is the factor that actually draws you to make the purchase: the Luxe Quotient. It is this quotient that mesmerizes you, draws you towards the product. This factor determines how much the brand has been able to dazzle you. The Luxe Factor or simply put the Razzle-Dazzle factor. The story that is weaved around the brand, the legacy that is associated with the brand and the experiential gratification that is attached to the brand all contribute towards creating this luxe and increasing this “Luxe Quotient”.
This LQ is determines the extent to which you will be able to exert yourself to indulge in the luxury brand. The craving, the eagerness, the longing, the desire, all are captured here. So in order to compare two luxury brands we need to first take the same sample. And ask the same set of questions on a scale and determine the degree of longing and dazzle that the brand has vis-à-vis the other. This LQ will act as a measure of the dazzle that a brand story has been able to create.
At the end, luxe is all about perception. How much you will be dazzled is very personal and so there isn’t any universal degree of LQ or LF for any particular brand. It depends on the sample chosen, and so while comparing the sample is kept the same and the LQ determines which brand is more dazzling, more desired.   
LQ is a unique measure for capturing longing and desire for a luxury brand. It has the ability to capture the relative dazzle factor of two or more comparable brands. It can also capture the desirability factor of the same brand across various customer segments of luxury -- Experientialists, Connoisseurs, Flaunters and Aesthetes. (Read my column: The Great Indian Luxury Consumer Decoded)
So we need to take samples from these four segments and gauge their desirability and LQ for the same brand and then arrive at a weighted average LQ for that particular brand. Similarly, we can have the same weighted average for luxury brands in the same category and upon comparison the LQs will reveal which brand has the highest Luxe Factor or LF.
Luxe Quotient, I believe is a great tool that brands across the globe must use to study the Luxe Factor or dazzle factor of their brand and then they can rework their brand story accordingly to reach their desired LQ or LF.

Monday, November 30, 2015

Strategic positioning of luxury brands

“The basic approach of positioning is not to create something new and different, but to manipulate what’s already in the mind, to retie the connections that already exist,” said Al Ries and Jack Trout in their book Positioning: The battle for your mind.
It is all about battling for your mind. The classical definition of positioning is a marketing strategy that aims to make a brand occupy a distinct position, relative to competing brands, in the mind of the customer. So let us understand the phases of this extraordinary make-or-break tool.

The quote has a classical approach to brand positioning but primarily is referring to positioning of an existing brand.
First, let me discuss the strategy for debut positioning of a brand in the luxury space. When you conceive of launching a brand in the luxury space the step is to study the market. The existing players or rather your competition and how they have positioned themselves all this while will give you a fair idea of the positioning that you are looking at.
Strategically, if the brand has a strong recall then it is prudent to find a new positioning for your brand. In case the existing brand is new, you may even try to replace its positioning.
For example, when the incumbent is a brand that is positioning itself as a brand with heritage and legacy, your move will be to position your brand as youthful or rather “cool”. Yes, luxury brand can be positioned as “a cool brand”. The greatest advantage of such a brand positioning that is connected to youth is that it appeals not only to the young people who can afford, but also to the young at heart people who want to be associated or who want to sport a brand that is “cool” and sporty and youthful. Tom Ford is such a brand that has appealed to the youthfulness of the clients. And small wonder, not only youth but also clients from more senior demography even James Bond have been loyal to Tom Ford brand. Other top designers like Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs have also made a niche for themselves by appealing to the youthfulness and vibrancy of their clients with their labels.
So when you are conceiving of a luxury brand, its positing will make or break it.
Now let us examine the positioning or rather re-positioning of an existing luxury brand. When I saw Rolls Royce launching a Wraith, I wondered for a while, “how is this sporty looking car fitting into the family of RR beside Phantom and Ghost?” The reason is simple. RR doesn’t want to confine its positioning to a brand of legacy and heritage that is associated with a certain level of power and seniority. A similar example is Louis Vuitton. LV’s brand ambassadors have classically been Bono, Angelina Jolie and Sean Connery. This was essentially “Core Values” campaign about how “a single journey can change your life”. The idea was to create aspiration for the youth and create a pull for both the young and the not-so-young. However, they realized it is time to tap into the market that they are missing out on. So the then creative director Marc Jacobs designed the Damier series of designs to attract youth and to reposition LV brand as youthful.
Now let us discuss the third and final facet or rather a dilemma that every luxury brand faces. It is a choice between exclusivity and dilution. When a brand is snob and will price itself at such a level that it is crowding out or alienating a greater part of the potential clients, it is gaining exclusivity. It remains an aspiration. For people who can’t afford, some resolve to buying first copies and fakes. However, some other brands make the pricing in such a manner so as to include a large pool of clients who are ready to invest significantly on a first copy. So they are drawing that money and making luxury brands affordable. Welcome to the most tricky client cluster, the Masstige. Handling this segment is the toughest for any brand manager. To what extent can you dilute your brand to gain volume and tap into the wide pool of counterfeits and provide clients with originals that they can afford. It can be a key chain or a coin purse or a wallet or a belt, it is all about flaunting the label, that too original. The pride associated with it is enormous, so the aspiration to buy bigger product only grows and the brands get a new set of wider client pool.
The only risk being brand dilution. Such a dilution may position the brand away from exclusivity and result in loss of loyal big-ticket clients who want exclusive rights to “luxe”.
So, be it positioning a new luxury brand or repositioning an existing brand or even handling exclusivity versus dilution debate, the efficacy of the job of a brand custodian lies is in his or her power of knowledge of the brand. The more you know your brand, you will know how best to position it.
Let your quest for luxury continue.

http://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/re-tales/strategic-positioning-of-luxury-brands/862

In Conversation with Mahul Brahma: The CEO Magazine

Communications and Branding Expert

The CEO Team • New Delhi
Q: From a senior editor you have become an expert on communications and branding. It must be an interesting journey. Please share with our readers.
It really was a very interesting journey indeed. I started my Corporate Communicator career as Media Advisor to Mr Sanjiv Goenka, Chairman of RP-SG Group, and as a PRO of CESC. Being the spokesperson of the power utility company and handling media from the other side of the table is a very challenging task. It was baptism by fire. I later joined Ambuja Neotia as Head of Corporate Communications and Branding and media advisor to MrHarshavardhan Neotia, Chairman and MD of the group. I am currently Head of Corporate Communications and Branding for a Tata Steel and SAIL joint venture, mjunction. I am the brand custodian and responsible for making the mjunction brand most admired. Being a part of Tata group has a great advantage as I get to connect with the entire Tata family including the Chairman Mr Cyrus Mistry. In the book “Intrapreneurs@mjunction” the author has also thanked me in the acknowledgement segment for my contribution in bringing out the book.
Media has been very kind to frequently seek my opinion and thoughts as an expert in Branding and Communications in their stories. I love sharing my ideas and thoughts on communication and branding with live audience in open forums during my speaking sessions at esteemed institutions like IIM Calcutta and industry bodies like CII and ASSOCHAM. I am also an active member of Public Relations Society of India (PRSI).
Q: You have been an accomplished journalist. Please share with us the story?
Journalism was my passion. I have been a journalist for over a decade. I have been lucky to work with some brilliant editors and journalists. I started my career with The Economic Timesin Kolkata in 2002. Then I moved to Mumbai and started working with Reuters and then joined the launch team of DNA in 2005. Soon after, I moved back to The Economic Times and started managing the Op-Ed page while extensively writing on entrepreneurship. I have held Senior Editorial positions in BusinessWorld magazine andCNBC TV18 Group’s Newswire18. In my last stint as a journalist, I was a Senior Editor with the India partner of the New York Times, Financial Chronicle (FC). I have written Editorials, Op-eds and on luxury extensively, I was also editor of a luxury supplement.
I am currently a columnist with The Economic Times on luxury branding. I write on the world of “luxe” and how it can be strategically marketed, positioned, branded and on its various other unknown facets.
I have also co-authored a book that was launched by Ms Jaya Bachchan in Kolkata titled “Durga: A woman of Substance”.
Q: Tell us a bit of your early life and educational background.
I was born on 15th February, 1981 in Kolkata in a Brahmo family. I graduated in Economics from St Xavier’s College, Calcutta and I am currently an advisor on entrepreneurship to SXC Entrepreneurship Development Cell. I completed my Masters in Economics from University of Calcutta and I was a ranker. I am currently pursuing my PhD in Economics.

http://theceo.in/2015/10/in-conversation-with-mahul-brahma-communications-and-branding-expert/

Why e-commerce in luxury will fail

In order to fully understand the inherent contradiction in incoherence at the core of the marriage between e-commerce and luxury and why it is destined for a divorce or a failure, let us first look into these two individually.
E-commerce or e-retail has been a game changer. The valuation game in which these biggies have entered into is a completely new premise for any business. Their valuation is increasing at the cost of making losses. But the million dollar question is how are they sustaining it? They are sustaining it because of the valuation game that will fetch them a buyer with very deep pockets. The buyer will look into the transactional value and the spectrum of offerings, so the focus is that and not profit. It is a great joy run for us consumers as the unrealistic discounts offered at the cost of company money may be funded by a private equity fund in China.
But as all good things come to an end, the risk of the bubble bursting is imminent. Business models can’t run on losses. Period.
E-commerce has changed the way we shop. Even a few years back, we couldn’t even fathom buying clothes or shoes without trying them on, but today it has become the norm. It has penetrated our lives like the way mobile phones have. Shopping has never been this convenient and cost-effective.

(Photo credit: Getty Images)
The core reason behind the success of e-commerce in India is our love for price-sensitivity. We love discounts, we love value for our money. The entire machinery of e-commerce or e-retail runs on unrealistic deals and discounts.
And this is where the meeting of hearts between ecommerce and luxury doesn’t happen. So let us understand the premises on which luxury buying is based in India.
I have oft repeated in my columns that luxury comes from the word “luxe” which means dazzle. Anything, as long it makes you dazzle, is luxury for you and you will pay a premium for it.
Luxe is a purely experiential phenomenon as it is heavily dependent on how your senses perceive something. If your senses feel dazzled, you are convinced to shell out that premium for a luxury brand.
Exciting and convincing our senses via a laptop, tab or mobile screen is next to impossible. And that is why the ecommerce companies try the same strategy of heavy discounts that they try for premium products. Unfortunately, this story of crazy discounts opens another can of worms. Welcome to the world of luxury counterfeits that are sold online. (Read my column: The world of luxury counterfeits just a click away: http://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/re-tales/The-world-of-luxury-counterfeits-just-a-click-away/184).
So with a seller’s warranty and not a manufacturer’s warranty, you never know you are getting a great deal or a counterfeit.
My friend very recently sought my advise for buying an Omega through a ecommerce website which was offering a discount of 40 per cent. But Omega was not offering that discount at any of its retail outlets. Although the price was realistic, I advised her against it as you will never know for sure without the manufacturer’s warranty, in this case Omega, whether it is an original or a counterfeit.

(Photo credit: Getty Images)
When you are paying a heavy premium for a luxury purchase you are paying for the experience. You walk into a luxury boutique, the way you are greeted with a smile and offered a special treatment from the word go, it is bound to make you feel good and special. The boutique manager will make you realize that you are almost on the verge of entering an exclusive and elite club with an amazing history and legacy -- it is just a purchase away. Then your senses, which are already feeling special, actually experiences the goods feel more special. For example, you are wearing the latest Omega watch that James Bond is sporting in the upcoming movie “Spectre” on your wrist and looking at the mirror, how can you not feel elated? You have already “bonded” with that timepiece. You just know this is the one. The boutique manager keeps pampering you, sometimes even with a glass of Champagne. So finally when you make the payment, it feels so justified and incidentally also “value for money”. You will revel in that Bond moment.
The entire ambience, the entire experience cannot be created online by any ecommerce company, even via simulation. No matter how much convenience or best deals you are offered, luxury shopping can’t happen without experience. It is not worth the money for the buyer and no amount of discount can replicate that experience.
So value of money as understood by e-commerce and e-retail players are not the same in case of luxury buying. In the former, it is just the hefty discounts, but in the latter, it is experiential worth of money.
So, no wonder the marriage between e-commerce and luxury is destined for failure.
Let your quest for luxury continue.

Monday, August 03, 2015

My interview to the Public Relations Society of India (PRSI)

Interview with Mr. Mahul Brahma, Corporate communications and Branding Head, mjunction. Some of the excerpts of the interview:
1. How do you manage the heterogeneous consumers?
For a PR professional, the customer is media. For a branding professional, the customer is the internal business heads and the Chairman/MD/CEO. For a corporate communicator, the customer consists of all the above three types and also employees (internal PR).
I was with CESC as a PRO and the most interesting facet of that job was the brand recall only happened in absence of the service. So when it when the power supply was disrupted people remembered CESC and media remembered its PRO. So with CESC it was baptism by fire. Once you learn to deal with the frantic calls from the media, you become an expert in firefighting and in dealing with crisis.
At Ambuja Neotia group, I was heading brand and corporate communications. It is a BtoC business, and the focus was hospitality. I was fortunate to be part of the team that launched a new restaurant and learn how best to communicate to the consumers and popularize it with clients using media and publicity. I learnt how a new brand (in this case a restaurant) is created and popularized. Another challenge was reputation management of Mr Harshavardhan Neotia, Chairman and MD, and my former boss. 
At mjunction, a JV between Tata Steel and SAIL, I am heading corporate communications and branding. My biggest challenge here was that it is a B to B business and there is no product that I can showcase. We are e-auctioning company, primarily steel and coal. But this was my opportunity to learn something new, a new challenge.
So, heterogeneous customers can only be managed if you take keen interest in understanding their needs and customize your work accordingly.
2. How do you manage the inhouse employees(internal PR)?
Managing internal PR is always a challenge. The key is to keep the employees engaged. Corporate newsletters are a great tool. At mjunction, we have mjPost that reaches out to not only the current employees but also to former junctionites. The newsletter should encourage participation from employees and try to capture their creative side that usually stays in the background. The more creatively and interestingly it is done the better is the engagement.

Another tool that can be used is mailers. As the newsletters aren’t the best tools to communicate news that have a short shelf life, these mailers keep employees abreast with the developments of the organization and its chief.
3. What are the CSR initiatives taken and why?
·        ejunction: A trust promoted through mjunction, ejunction is dedicated to providing basic computer and communication skills free of cost to members of the underprivileged sections of society and creating employability opportunities for them. In FY14, ejunction trained 938 students and created 391 employment opportunities.
·        MET: The Movement for Efficiency & Transparency, or MET in short, is a brainchild of the company’s founder CEO & MD and MET is an initiative to provide a platform to people who have transcended barriers of inefficiency and opaqueness to share their success stories and ideas for the future with a select audience. Eight MET events have been held so far and has had partners such as Tata Steel, SAIL and 5th Pillar, a Chennai-based anti-corruption organisation.
4. Who is the nearest competitor? Competition strategy if any?
mjunction is in a unique business and we don’t have strong competition. However, in Ambuja Neotia, especially in hospitality, it was a big challenge. The strategy is always to identify the unique selling proposition and showcase it in an innovative and engaging manner so that you stand out.
5. How is Ad and PR necessary in today's market?
In today’s market it is all about getting the mindspace of your customers. There are so many engagements of an average individual that one really needs to fight for a piece of his/her mindspace. Advertisements and PR help achieve that objective effectively. These two means are critical in today’s market and no corporation can even think of surviving without these two critical, life-savingsupports.
However, we must also understand that advertisement and PR are intrinsically different. And thus one needs to understand the effectiveness of each format to use them intelligently so that the return on investment (RoI) is maximized.
Advertisements have cost implications, whether outdoor or indoor. Be it print or electronic or a hoarding, it is a costly affair. So that has to be judiciously decided so as to maximize RoI. However, there are areas where you can’t help but spend as your business will not grow otherwise and competition will crush you just based on an expensive campaign that you avoided as it was not in your budget. 
As far as PR is concerned, editorial coverage is a very powerful tool for establishing the credibility of an organization. But managing the media is a very challenging task. They will always act as the devil’s advocate and you have to convince the editors the worth of the news that you are sharing. However, every PR person needs to have/develop news judgement, at least, a sense of what makes news. Journalists have an edge in this aspect when they move over to the other side. But it is critical that the journalists take you seriously and trust that you will not give them wrong information. Once that is established, a PR professional has done the job well. At times, when ads lose impact, a great editorial coverage can work wonders.
6. Advise to young professionals:
For corporate communicators, my word of advise is that continuously keep honing your language skills. Read a lot and try to avoid jargons in your communications. Make the language as fluid as you can be. And always be focused in your communications.
I have a column with The Economic Times on luxury branding and I still make time to write for it, no matter how busy I am.
Young PR professionals: Be very honest in your dealings, especially with the journalists and your own organization. Engage with journalists and try to get a sense of what makes news. Never try to sell non-news to them just because your boss has asked you to do so.
For young branding professionals, my advise is that any branding decision needs to have a definite RoI, it is never ambiguous, although you may like to think it that way.
I wish all the very best for your future endeavours and always try to be creative and innovative.




Interviewer Name: Mohit Chomal                Corp. Name: Mr. Mahul Brahma                     Date of Interview: 25th july 2014               

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